Minecraft tnt cannon map download

This can make a previously great cannon inaccurate. This is true with many cannons; but the solution is simple.

If you add a guide block to the cannon, so that there is a wall on either side of the TNT when it is primed, it will not shift left or right, making an otherwise straight shot diagonal. If your design does not allow for this, you could just make the guide blocks one block higher, instead of being on either side of the TNT. This works because TNT will jump up, then go sideways in midair.

Note that in most basic cannons, guide blocks should be transparent if the TNT cannon automatically primes the shot-otherwise, the redstone that ignites the charge will power the block next to the shot, and igniting the shot as well. If this explanation is unclear, look at this diagram:. In dry cannons, a guide block is almost a necessity because dry cannons tend to be inaccurate. However, dry cannon's guides are for directing the shot to be shot accurately, not to be primed accurately.

However, guides can also decrease range if they are too long. The shot mounting block for a cannon should be chosen according to how fast, far, and high you want the cannon to fire. Of course, these variables depend greatly on the position and amount of the charge and the timing of the shot, but the mounting block also can make a difference.

For example, with a cannon with a charge of 5 and a delay of R4. When no mounting block is used, the shot is launched from the same level as the TNT.

Gravity will quickly pull the shot to the ground, giving a very flat, downwards trajectory. With small TNT charges, the range can be extremely limited. To increase the range, ever larger charges are needed or the cannon must be built higher above the ground. A larger charge means a higher velocity to the shot, pushing it farther away before it drops to the ground.

Players have been known to use up to 70 TNT charges and beyond. But economically, a cannon without a mounting block will take more TNT and longer to load for a certain range. Cons: Low velocity, reduced power and poor range for smaller cannons, and it won't go as far. A single full size block such as cobblestone or obsidian is placed under the Shot. This has the effect of elevating the Shot above the water trough, so the blast force from the Charge is applied not just forward, but upwards.

The shot is fired out at a high angle and trajectory. This is useful for hitting an elevated target, or one behind terrain or obstruction.

However, part of the blast force is absorbed by a solid mounting block, so the cannon will suffer similar problems of needing large charge sizes. Also, since some of the energy is expelled in the upwards direction, forward shot velocity is reduced greatly. A better alternative to the single mounting block is using a ladder instead.

Pros: Smooth trajectory not too high, not too low , average velocity, more efficient for small and medium cannons. A slab is the compromise between a single block and no mounting, and generally more efficient than either.

As with a single block, some of the blast energy is absorbed by the block, but much less. From the same TNT load, the half block has greater range than a single block or no block. When the TNT shot is initially placed over a half block, it will hang over it as if it was a full size block.

Once the TNT has been "primed", it will fall down and sit on the true height of the slab. The firing angle produced by a half block is good for extending the range of a cannon and hitting elevated targets, but its too low for effective lobbing over high walls and obstacles. For straight direct firing, shots fired with a half block mounting generally land level on the ground within a certain range.

However, due to the limited fuse time of TNT in the game, scaling up the TNT charges up to a point will result in the shot flying too high and exploding in the air before it lands or reach the cannon's maximum range.

This will be refer to as the "fuse range limit". All cannons are limited by the fuse range limit, but cannons firing at higher angles are especially prone to the fuse limit, as the shot velocity is lower and shots reach higher altitudes. Pros: closed Optimized for flat trajectory, velocity almost the same as no-block, have a very large range meaning it can destroy far targets, opened can be used in open position for higher firing angle, good scaling, can destroy higher targets.

Cons: Be sure that priming circuit doesn't activate the trapdoor by accident. Very high speeds and oversized accurate shots could mean that if the primed TNT hits a nearby wall in the air, it will fall down and miss the shot. It cannot aim at medium or high elevated targets. If the firing angle of the half block is too high for your purpose, a closed trapdoor can be used instead. Like the half block, it provides some upward force to the shot by elevating it above the trough.

Little forward velocity is lost when firing, and shot typically fly out at very high speeds. This combine with the low firing angle means cannons firing larger loads can extend their range without encountering too much fuse range problems as with the half block or ladder mounting. Pros: Efficient with small and medium cannons, high firing angle, parabolic trajectory, good for lobbing shots and high altitude. A ladder placed on the side can serve as a very effective mounting block for firing at high angles and lobbing shots.

A primed shot will be supported by the edge thickness of the ladder, preventing it from falling into the trough. Because a ladder is not a full size block, none of the energy from the blast is absorbed, and the shot is propelled out at full force. By adding ladders above each other, different firing angles can be achieved. A good portion of the blast energy is directed upwards on the block, so horizontal speeds are generally much slower than a no-mount or half block mount cannon.

In return, the cannon has no problem lobbing shots over terrain and walls. At larger charge loads, shots can reach very high altitudes. However, this also means the fuse range limit is an inherent problem with this mounting.

Within a block distance, well built cannons level with the ground can expect to land shots low enough to cause damage. But beyond this shots explode midair way beforehand, even with a shot primed at maximum fuse time with a delay circuit. Hence, one can't simply add more TNT to increase the range, as it will only make the shot fly higher.

A basic solution is to put the cannon below ground, in a pit with a slanted slope to allow the shot to fly out. Since the shot had a lower starting point, it will explode closer to the ground once its fuse time runs out. To reach ranges beyond blocks, this solution becomes impractical. Pros: Efficient with small and medium cannons, low firing angle, good for shooting through caves and past overhanging base defenses. High velocity, extremely powerful in spread cannons and long range cannons.

Cons: Expensive materials, fuse range limit to bigger cannons. If used a condenser, then the explosion will send the TNT too high and with no ceiling, the TNT can destroy the cannon.

A fence placed at the end of the cannon tricks Minecraft to think that it is one block high, since it is only one and a half block high for the player's perspective.

Therefore, the charge would be recognized as closer to the shot than it actually is. Since it gains more power and velocity, it appears to fly up a bit, then go down in an attack angle. However, the explosion launches the TNT upwards meaning if the cannon has no ceiling, the TNT can well destroy the cannon.

This gives it a distinctive style of cannon shooting, and it is considered one of the most useful mounting blocks in Minecraft. Pros: Adjustable, when fully extended it has the same effects of a full block but is more efficient than it and is more versatile, compatible with firing sand or gravel.

Cons: Expensive, the shot has been subject to the fuse range delay limit found in arcing cannons, is used as a mortar MB so usage inside caves or buildings is not recommended and will result in short range shots, accidentally placing two TNT blocks one on top of the other will destroy the cannon, requires a R4.

Cons: Can only shoot 9 blocks, expensive, make sure the circuit doesn't activate it by accident. This cannon is only used in an extreme hills biome. It only works if the cannon is on a cliff and the target is below it. It is the second worst cannon.

Cons: Make sure the sensor doesn't activate the circuit by accident by daylight, expensive. This is a cannon for ground levels and it is good on any type of cannon except of super large cannons which has a fuse range limit. This is good for attacking bigger castles, but has also a big range. One of the best mounting blocks. This mounting block is good for attacking far targets if you have resources. It has smaller footprint which means that charge TNT can be closer to the shot than when using slabs, thus increasing the range.

This feature can be used to make a new form of TNT cannons. This cannon would have dispensers that release TNT into the water. Redstone would run on top of the dispensers. A tick delay would keep the shot in the dispenser until the last possible moment. Another dispenser would place the TNT shot right before the charge detonates, giving the shot the most amount of airborne time possible.

You can easily modify it to have another dispenser under the water facing up, and you can use a fence post with a pressure plate on top instead of a slab. Pros: The time taken to reload TNT is at its absolute minimum. All a player has to do is to make sure the next shot is placed after the first shot is fired to make sure you don't destroy your cannon. Such precision makes this cannon good for castle defense. Furthermore, through use of comparators, it is possible to make an easily aim-able dispenser-based cannon, and dispenser-based cannons do not blow themselves up if hit with another TNT cannon.

Cons: Dispensers and TNT are expensive. This type of cannon can never be quite as hardy as manual cannons, since dispensers can be blown up with TNT. Furthermore, if the cannon is left loaded and unattended, it is trivial to steal the TNT from its magazine.

This is also true of conventional auto-cannons. Dispenser-based cannons with a one-block-wide water pool have also been known to blow themselves up, particularly if left firing automatically and unattended.

An automatic cannon can easily be made with this design. Substitute the button for redstone and hook the redstone up to a clock. Be careful not to set the clock under 4 seconds, the same time as it would take the TNT to explode. If the TNT is reloaded too quickly, the timing can cause the shot to detonate before the propellant does, destroying the entire cannon.

Reloading cannons are one of the most complex designs for beginners. However, as long as close attention is payed, for a first time build, it can be created in about 15—20 minutes depending on the size. Reloading cannons became obsolete when dispensers were added except in the console editions. The Good: Reloading TNT cannons can be customized just as easily as any other cannon using fences, iron bars, glass panes, etc.

They can be shot several times with only a few seconds' interval in opposition to having to reload it several times like you'd have to do with a standard TNT cannon. Using the simple design, this TNT cannon can have up to 12 rounds in the magazine. If playing a fortress war server, this cannon can fire repeated shots which will demolish the enemies' buildings before they have time to stuff their ammunition into their puny and inferior weapons.

Damage values show how "good" a cannon is, the higher the value, the better it is. It is calculated as the average of three values: accuracy, power and speed. The accuracy value is calculated from the accuracy input, which is the average of the distances from the explosions generated from the shots to the average of their positions.

In the image to the right, the accuracy input is the average of the lengths of the blue lines. The red dot is the average of the positions of the explosions, and an endpoint of each of the blue lines, the others being the explosions.

The speed input is the distance between the front of the cannon to the average position of the centers of the explosions. Ergonomic value tells how hard a cannon is to build, higher values signifying easier build. It is the average of the construction, redstone, and TNT values. The construction input is an estimate of the number of blocks in the cannon, excluding fire, water, air, and TNT.

TNT amount, maximum range, and nickname are pretty self-explanatory, but to clarify, the TA is the same as the TNT value of the EV, and the MR is the distance from the front of the cannon to the farthest explosion.

The nickname is whatever you name it, assuming it's not profane, and nobody else has already named a similar cannon. A cannon's technical name should give its readers a complete picture of its function, use, and method of operation.

While it is impossible to anticipate every innovation in TNT cannon technologies, most cannons will benefit from using these standards in their technical names. In creative mode, there is no reason to build a TNT cannon for warfare, but is the optimal mode for testing and developing cannons. In factions raiding with TNT cannons is the most common way of getting into a base.

There are two main methods. The first on servers where enabled is to airburst. This only works on obsidian with water outside. The cannon shot must have a delay so the explosion reaches the obsidian but the primed TNT must not be in the water.

These cannons will not work on other walls. The other method is with hybrid cannons which are explained below. The basic hybrid is one of the most commonly used raiding cannons.

The default definition of cannon size is how many TNT are in the shot or how far it fires. If you are talking about compact cannons, you might be talking about literally the size of the cannon e. But usually, people mean charge mass. A small cannon, such as a A medium cannon, such as the A large cannon, such as the A sniper cannon, such as the And of course, mass demo cannons, such as the A comparison of the shot distance of two different cannons, 1 shot with and 1 shot without a condenser charge each.

Because the force from an explosion is weaker the further away from its source, TNT placed more than 7 blocks from the projectile have little to no effect. To remedy this problem a condenser charge may be used. A condenser charge works by exploding slightly before the main charge, with the intention to push other primed TNTs towards the projectile.

Since the main charge is closer to the projectile, it will be launched with more force. Using pistons to push the main charge closer to the shot also does the same thing as a condenser charge, more complicated to build but more controllable. To work, the main charge must be primed, turning the solid TNT blocks into entities.

Once they are entities, a series of pistons can push and concentrated all charges into a single block space behind the shot. In this system, you get far more efficient power from a given size of charge.

Care must be taken so that the pistons do not displace the water blocks protecting the cannon from TNT damage. To do this, one usually has to apply water a block above the area where the pistons would go into. It is also advised that the pistons should retract back into normal position before the main charge explodes, or your cannon might be destroyed. When the pistons extend, they create air spaces in the water no matter what, hence compromising the water's protection.

When a TNT charge is primed, it will usually shift slightly to one side, which can reduce the accuracy of otherwise well-designed cannons.

A simple solution exists: add guide blocks so that there is a wall on either side of the TNT when it is primed. This will prevent the TNT from shifting left or right, resulting in a straighter shot, with less diagonal variance.

If your design does not allow for this, you could just make the guide blocks one block higher, instead of being on either side of the TNT. This works because TNT will jump up, then go sideways in midair. Note that in most basic cannons, guide blocks should be transparent if the TNT cannon automatically primes the shot-otherwise, the redstone that ignites the charge will power the block next to the shot, and igniting the shot as well.

If this explanation is unclear, look at this diagram:. In dry cannons, a guide block is almost a necessity because dry cannons tend to be inaccurate. However, dry cannon's guides are for directing the shot to be shot accurately, not to be primed accurately.

However, guides can also decrease range if they are too long. The shot mounting block for a cannon should be chosen according to how fast, far, and high you want the cannon to fire. Of course, these variables depend greatly on the position and amount of the charge and the timing of the shot, but the mounting block also can make a difference.

For example, with a cannon with a charge of 5 and a delay of R4. With small TNT charges, the range can be extremely limited. To increase the range, ever larger charges are needed or the cannon must be built higher above the ground. A larger charge means a higher velocity to the shot, pushing it farther away before it drops to the ground. Players have been known to use up to 70 TNT charges and beyond. But economically, a cannon without a mounting block will take more TNT and longer to load for a certain range.

However, part of the blast force is absorbed by a solid mounting block, so the cannon will suffer similar problems of needing large charge sizes.

Also, since some of the energy is expelled in the upwards direction, forward shot velocity is reduced greatly. A better alternative to the single mounting block is using a ladder instead. When the TNT shot is initially placed over a half block, it will hang over it as if it was a full size block. Once the TNT has been "primed", it will fall down and sit on the true height of the slab.

The firing angle produced by a half block is good for extending the range of a cannon and hitting elevated targets, but its too low for effective lobbing over high walls and obstacles. For straight direct firing, shots fired with a half block mounting generally land level on the ground within a certain range. However, due to the limited fuse time of TNT in the game, scaling up the TNT charges up to a point will result in the shot flying too high and exploding in the air before it lands or reach the cannon's maximum range.

This will be refer to as the "fuse range limit". All cannons are limited by the fuse range limit, but cannons firing at higher angles are especially prone to the fuse limit, as the shot velocity is lower and shots reach higher altitudes.

Little forward velocity is lost when firing, and shot typically fly out at very high speeds. This combine with the low firing angle means cannons firing larger loads can extend their range without encountering too much fuse range problems as with the half block or ladder mounting. A good portion of the blast energy is directed upwards on the block, so horizontal speeds are generally much slower than a no-mount or half block mount cannon.

In return, the cannon has no problem lobbing shots over terrain and walls. At larger charge loads, shots can reach very high altitudes.

However, this also means the fuse range limit is an inherent problem with this mounting. Within a block distance, well built cannons level with the ground can expect to land shots low enough to cause damage. But beyond this shots explode midair way beforehand, even with a shot primed at maximum fuse time with a delay circuit. Hence, one can't simply add more TNT to increase the range, as it will only make the shot fly higher.

A basic solution is to put the cannon below ground, in a pit with a slanted slope to allow the shot to fly out. Since the shot had a lower starting point, it will explode closer to the ground once its fuse time runs out. To reach ranges beyond blocks, this solution becomes impractical. Note: the example cannon needs modifications to work in Bedrock Edition because dispensers still make TNT hop ending up with the first TNT destroying the machine.

This can be fixed by putting that dispenser on a separate water flow that goes into the same block, also allowing for long range cannons. This feature can be used to make better automatic TNT cannons. The cannon to the right uses dispensers to release TNT into the water.

When you press the button, first the long row of dispensers will fire. After a tick delay made the repeaters , leftmost dispenser will dispense the last moment before the TNT detonates, giving the shot a longer range.

Note that the leftmost dispenser is higher than the other dispensers, and that the water should be flowing towards the front of the cannon. You can easily modify it to have another dispenser under the water facing up, and you can use a fence post with a pressure plate on top instead of a slab.

Pros: The time taken to reload TNT is at its absolute minimum. All a player has to do is to make sure the next shot is placed after the first shot is fired to make sure you don't destroy your cannon.

Such precision makes this cannon good for castle defense. Furthermore, through use of comparators, it is possible to make an easily aim-able dispenser-based cannon, and dispenser-based cannons do not blow themselves up if hit with another TNT cannon. Cons: Dispensers and TNT are expensive. This type of cannon can never be quite as hardy as manual cannons, since dispensers can be blown up with TNT.

Furthermore, if the cannon is left loaded and unattended, it is trivial to steal the TNT from its magazine. This is also true of conventional auto-cannons. Dispenser-based cannons with a one-block-wide water pool have also been known to blow themselves up, particularly if left firing automatically and unattended. An automatic cannon can easily be made with this design. Substitute the button for redstone and hook the redstone up to a clock. Be careful not to set the clock under 4 seconds, the same time as it would take the TNT to explode.

If the TNT is reloaded too quickly, the timing can cause the shot to detonate before the propellant does, destroying the entire cannon. Reloading cannons are one of the most complex designs for beginners. However, as long as close attention is paid, for a first time build, it can be created in about 15—20 minutes depending on the size. Reloading cannons became obsolete when dispensers were added except in the console editions.

The Good: Reloading TNT cannons can be customized just as easily as any other cannon using fences, iron bars, glass panes, etc. They can be shot several times with only a few seconds' interval in opposition to having to reload it several times like you'd have to do with a standard TNT cannon.

Using the simple design, this TNT cannon can have up to 12 rounds in the magazine. If playing a fortress war server, this cannon can fire repeated shots which will demolish the enemies' buildings before they have time to stuff their ammunition into their puny and inferior weapons. The Bad: Unfortunately, cannons of this variety are bulky and often unattractive.

They require sand or gravel which are nonrenewable resources in survival mode. Added to that, it is tedious to reload the cannons whenever the magazines run out of ammo, however occasional that may be.

With standard TNT cannons, if the 1-round magazine is destroyed, it is usually easily replaceable. This is not the case with the reloading kind, as the entire magazine will explode, destroying the weapon and all the redstone wiring with it—often killing you in the process. This type of cannon has also become redundant with the recent updates allowing automatic cannons utilizing dispensers to reload the tnt, which is easier and more compact to make.

Step 1. Make the framework. Begin with a standard design, but make a few modifications so that it looks like this. Then, you should get out a bucket of water and pour it down the slot like you would with any other design.

Make sure to place a block hovering over the source block so you won't accidentally place something in it. Step 2. Make the magazine. This is where the TNT is going to be pushed and loaded into the firing chamber. As simple as that and you have a TNT cannon. Im pretty sure it works in PE. But if you are using Minecraft PC 1. Also add a barrel of necessary. If you have questions about this cannon or anything about TNT cannons, please send your question thru the comment box.

You are commenting using your WordPress. You are commenting using your Google account. You are commenting using your Twitter account. You are commenting using your Facebook account. Notify me of new comments via email. Notify me of new posts via email. Place the dispensers in d shaper of a V 2. Add the redstone 3.